The everyday work of sofrito

A small start in the pan can shape an entire pot of food.

A pot of rice or beans may look simple when served, yet its flavor often begins long before the main ingredient enters the pan. Aromatic vegetables softened in oil form a foundation that is sometimes called sofrito, with names and ingredients varying by place.

Onion and garlic are familiar starting points. Peppers, tomatoes, cilantro, culantro and other herbs may join them, depending on the cook and the dish. Dominican, Puerto Rican and Cuban kitchens should not be treated as if they use one identical formula.

Patience is more useful than high heat. Let onions soften without burning; add garlic later because it browns quickly. Tomatoes need a little time to lose excess water, while delicate herbs may benefit from being added toward the end.

A prepared aromatic base can make weeknight meals easier. Cool it promptly, refrigerate in a clean container and use within a few days, or freeze small portions. Then add only what the particular dish needs.

Taste the finished dish rather than relying on the name of the base. A sofrito does not replace salt, acidity or the careful cooking of beans and rice; it gives those decisions a flavorful place to begin.